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GAZETTE DU BON TON, Art – Modes & Frivolités
Seventy issues in 69 fascicles small in-4º; stapled, off-white publisher's covers printed in black and covered with the publisher's crystal paper, all under 7 modern folders and cases (1 per year), off-white paper folders, with title in black on the spine according to the typography of the title of the covers, year and date, gray paper cases (Elbel)
Complete collection of the Gazette du Bon Ton, an elegant contemporary fashion magazine founded by Lucien Vogel.
This luxurious magazine was published in France by the Librairie centrale des beaux-arts and sold by annual subscription. Its publication was interrupted during the war (last issue Summer 1915), before resuming in January 1920. In 1921, Vogel sold the Gazette to an American distributor (who published, among others, the magazine Vogue on which the Gazette exerted a considerable influence) while remaining director of publication until December 1922. After a few months of interruption due to the change of management, the publication resumed under the direction of Jean Labusquière (June 1923) and continued until 1925 (last issue December 1925). In total, this superb collection of 70 issues in 69 fascicles is illustrated with 583 off-text plates colored with stencils and 148 sketches, most of them colored, representing mainly models of great couturiers and designers such as Lanvin, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet, Doucet... With many color illustrations in the text, including many full-page. The best artists of the time have collaborated to the Gazette. Among them : Raoul Dufy, Georges Lepape, Georges Barbier, Brunelleschi, P. Brissaud, M. Siméon, Ch. Martin, Drian, Iacovleff, Benito, M. Leroy... Jean Cocteau, Pierre Mac Orlan, Raymond Radiguet, Roger Boutet de Monvel, etc. are among the famous authors who wrote many articles on fashion, decoration ... making La Gazette du Bon Ton, the most important and interesting magazine for contemporary fashion and art of living. The book is complete with its false titles, titles and tables published only for the first 5 years.
A very nice copy, well preserved, delicately and luxuriously protected and highlighted by very beautiful boxes executed by Benjamin Elbel. Minor flaws: small lack of paper on the back covers of n°1 (1st year), 1 and 2 (2nd year), 9 (7th year) - slight small wetnesses without gravity on the edges of pl 3, 4 and 9 (1st year), 2, 10, 44, 48 and 54, pp. [145-148], [169-172], I and XII (2nd year), pl 53 and 55, pp.369 and 374 (6th year), cover no. 4 (7th year) - slight foxing to title of no. 8-9 (2nd year) and on lower edge of qq ff. of no. 6 (4th year) - small soiling or small stains on edge of pl 9 (no. 1) and 10 (no. 5) (1st year), p. 251 (2nd year), and upper cover no. 8 (7th year) - small stains on title of no. 8 (2nd year) and on lower edge of qq ff. of no. 6 (4th year) - small stains on title of no. 9 (2nd year) and on lower edge of qq ff n°8 (7th year) - 3 sketch covers slightly split at the fold (n°5 and 6, 3rd year, and n°1, 5th year) - pl 7 slightly corroded (3rd year) - small corner missing sketch LIV (5th year) - small tear at the bottom p XVII (7th year).
Lucien Vogel (1886-1954) was a French newspaper publisher, creator and director of several newspapers and man of the fashion world.
Vogel began his career in the publishing world in 1903 after his studies in Paris. He joined the magazine Femina in 1906 and in 1912 he launched his first magazine, the Gazette du Bon Ton with the help of his wife, Yvonne "Cosette" Vogel, sister of the creator of Babar, Jean de Brunhoff.
In 1914, he was mobilized in Morocco where he was incorporated as a photographer in the Service of Fine Arts, Historical Monuments and Antiquities. He had to make photographic registers of the main cities. This work is preserved today in the Archives of Foreign Affairs in Nantes.
Back in France, Vogel founded Le Style parisien, a small illustrated periodical that was bought by Hachette two years later. He published the magazine Les Feuillets d'art in 1919 and L'Illustration des modes which became Le Jardin des modes in 1920. The Gazette du Bon Ton was launched in 1921. Vogel also worked as artistic director of Vogue France for three years.
In 1928, his political position is reflected in his fight against National Socialism and Francoism through his magazine Vu et Lu until 1936, when he was fired because of his political activities. In 1940 he had to take refuge in New York until the end of the war. In 1947, Vogel attended the first Christian Dior fashion show with his wife and brother-in-law.
Lucien Vogel also published many books on art, architecture and decoration or famous authors such as Max Jacob, André Gide among others.